Coming Back Home

Something is missing.  I’m back in my beloved Việt Nam, and I feel like I’ve returned  home, yet its not really home without the Mystery Guest Blogger next to me.  I miss having her with me while I reunite with old friends.

The trip from deep south Texas to Ho Chi Minh City (still known as Sài Gòn to most Vietnamese) was the usual tedious boring trip, interspersed only with the normal irritations of international air travel.  The nut cracker sent along as a gift for our friend Thành was pulled out by security twice – both in Texas and again in Tokyo.  But, even though the plane arrived 2 ½ hours late at 2AM, there was my wonderful former student waiting for me with flowers in her hand.  It was delightful to see Trang, and to enjoy a long lunch and catch up with old times.  As often happens after graduation, her real education has begun.

I had one night to wander around Sài Gòn, which while not my favorite city, is still a neat place.  The People’s Committee House (City Hall)  was once an opulent French hotel, and today looks out upon a little park with a statute of Uncle Ho playing with children.

(Be sure to click on the photos to see larger versions.)

Readers of “The Quiet American” or viewers of the marvelous movie “Indochine” will recognize the old Continental Hotel, which housed international correspondents during two wars.  It is on Đông Khới Street, once  known as Tu Do Street back when it had many bars and massage parlors frequented by American GIs.  Under the French, it was known as Rue Catinet.  Today it is the center of high-end shopping in  Sài Gòn.

I stayed at the Rex Hotel as I have before.  The Rex is also an old landmark, and it housed senior American officers back in the 60s and 70s.  Atop the building is a rooftop bar.  My association with that bar goes way back to 1967, when as a young 2nd Lieutenant in a dirty field uniform decided to irritate the khaki-clad office workers by going into that bar and downing a beer.

I’m in Huê now, and just as expected the weather is cold and wet.  Its winter here, and the temperature is about 55 degrees F, its raining, and the humidity is 99%.  I’ve already connected with friends and former students, and its nice to be here.

I just wish the MGB were with me.

Comments

[Tom Murray]

Doug,

Fifty-five degrees in Hue must feel very, very cold. On my two visits I've always eaten at the Continental. I favor Vietnamese food, but near the end of both trips the ham & pineapple pizza at the Continental was really good. The restaurant on the same floor as the bar at the REX is always a favorite. We love the traditional Vietnamese music and the food is pretty good too.

Your post has me thinking of this summer when I will arrive back in Hue. It's funny, but Hue and Hoi An seem to be the most relaxing places I visit each year. I hope everything goes well.

Tom

[Dell Inspiron 1501.....but my friends call me J. Bradford!]

I remember sitting in the bar at the Rex, listening to a Viet rock and roll band, sorta. Your photography is really, REALLY, nice.

[Russ]

I gotcha at 70F with light rain. Glad to hear you made it home safely. I know how you feel.

[Dell Inspiron 1501.....but my friends call me J. Bradford!]

Kvetching? This is Vietnamese? Why do Vietnamese Jewish husbands die before their wives........Because they want to! Hey! Contrast this; Last night I bought a 2 piece chicken dinner, both breasts, a side of cajun rice, a side of pinto beans. Total price at Bojangles: $9.67....It's all relative, my Brother. Your photos look great. I'm ready to come teach, if they pay the way. I gotta live...And why do Vietnamese Jewish divorces cost so much? Because they're worth it!!!!!I have no idea why I'm on a Viet Jewish trip. How about Nguyen Goldblatt?????