When we taught the English majors at the College of Foreign Language at Hue University, I enjoyed challenging the students. My freshmen Speaking students, all 151 of them, were not used to asking questions in class. If you question the teacher, the teacher might be made to look at fault as if you had not been properly taught, so it isn’t done. Students also were definitely not used to speaking their mind in class and then being challenged to think deeper.
In each of the 3 classes, we talked about the prosperity beginning to come to Viet Nam. Many of these young people were likely to be the first in their family to go to college, and had dreams of succeeding on a ‘western’ scale. This dream is within the reach of all of them. They graduated in 2008, and the ones I have tracked have jobs befitting their education as professional translators and educators.
During our year and a half in Hue starting the spring of 2005, and on our annual trips back, we have seen increasing evidence of disposable income among Vietnamese. Disposable income is a sure sign of prosperity to me. Fewer and fewer adults are riding bicycles; this is transportation largely for school children now. A large proportion of shops and restaurants are enclosed in glass, instead of grates and shutters, to accommodate the air conditioning. Cell phones are so common even the sic lo drivers, generally the lowest economic level on the traffic scene, have them. Gives them an edge to get to the gazillion unloading tourist busses quickest. You don’t even have to hunt for an ATM anymore, and all the hotels and many, many cafés have WiFi. Expensive long distance calls to relatives in the states have been replaced by Skype calls on the internet, and it is not unusual for families to have a home computer and DSL.
Back in the day, the topic I threw at each of my students for English discussion was “When Hue becomes so affluent that every family owns a car (much nodding of heads and self satisfied smiling), where will they park them?”
Well, it is happening. The increasing presence of the private auto is being felt in Hue. Four years ago, the only cars seemed to be taxis and the occasional government car. It is not uncommon now to see a car waiting at the curb for a passenger. I am told cars are being parked in suitably large first floors of homes (you have to know the architecture to realize how well this really works), and city Vietnamese, so used to locking their gate to enclose motorbikes and bicycles, are modifying those gates to allow the family car.
I can’t prove there have been more private cars on the street this month, following me on my bicycle, honk…honk…honking their presence to me. But there have been.
And I have counted three times this month, a car parked at the curbs of eating establishments while passengers, presumably, are inside eating. One day a pair of business men pulled up to Phuong Nam while I enjoyed my lunch, asking where they should put the car. The proprietress told them to put it down the street a little ways, in front of the bicycles and motorbikes, but definitely not right in front of the restaurant.
Can meters lining the streets and high rise parking decks be far behind? I never thought to ask my students.
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